Cleaning Nibs and Checking for Damage
On this post, we go over how to clean a new nib, how to tell if it’s good to go, and how to tell if it’s time to replace it.
How to clean a new nib:
If you dip a new nib in ink and try to write with it, chances are, you’ll struggle producing proper strokes! This is because nibs have manufacturer oils coated on them that prevent them from rusting, and guess what, these oils are also going to prevent the ink from sticking to the nibs and flowing properly off of them, unless you clean them first.
Here are some options on how you can prepare new nibs for use.
Wash it with dish soap and water.
Wipe it with rubbing alcohol.
Put toothpaste on a Q-tip and wipe it off gently.
This is icky but other people do it: spit on a paper towel and wipe the nib with saliva.
Very, very carefully stick the nib in a potato for a few minutes. And I say “very” twice because if you do this wrong, the tines are going to get damaged and won’t spring back to its correct position.
Note: While writing, it’s good practice to regularly clean the nib by dipping it into a jar of water every few lines and every time you end a session, especially if you’re using metallic or sumi inks (which tend to dry faster and stick to the nib) or if you’re using a paper that has fibers that tend to catch on your nib often.
What does a properly cleaned nib look like?
When you dip it into ink and look at the underside, the surface that touched the ink should be fully covered with no spots peeking out.
How to check for damage:
There is a slit that splits the pointed nib into two tines. View the nib from the side and from the top. These two tines should be perfectly aligned with each other; there should be no gap.
With the curved side up, hold the tip against your fingernail or a piece of paper and gently put pressure on it. The two tines should splay out, and when you release the pressure, they should snap back to its starting position and in perfect alignment.
Sometimes the damage is imperceptible and you will only feel it when you write. When you are writing upstrokes and one of the tines gets left behind, therefore the nib skips the paper, it’s time to replace the nib.
Pen Holders and Nib Angle
This post takes a closer look at the important angles an oblique pen holder has upon itself and relative to the paper, plus how it usually affects your writing.
When doing pointed pen calligraphy, the main tools that you need are:
Pen holder
Pointed nib
Ink
Paper
It is also useful to have a jar of water for rinsing the nib and paper towel or a piece of cloth for wiping the nib. You would want to clean off your nib after every session, whenever you get paper fibers stuck in it, or whenever the ink has dried on the nib.
There are two types of pen holders: straight and oblique.
The straight pen has a groove at the top where you can insert the nib into. I would recommend using a straight pen if you want to do a vertical script (not slanted at all). I personally have trouble using the straight pen for a slanted script like copperplate because I find that I would have to twist my hand uncomfortably to do it, but different people hold pens differently so I would still encourage you to try using it.
The oblique pen has a metal attachment to the pen called a flange. The metal flange protrudes at an angle from the pen holder and is meant to assist you in performing a slanted script.
When buying oblique pens, I would advise you to pay attention to how much the flange allows the nib to be angled towards the center of the pen. If you trace an imaginary vertical line from the center of the pen, the tip of the nib should fall as close as possible to that imaginary line. Having it aligned to the center allows for a more balanced feel while writing.
Another thing that I would look at when writing with oblique pens is the angle of the nib relative to the paper. Everyone has their own preference on this and you would develop your own preference the more you use the tool. Here are some differences that I’ve noticed:
Steeper nib-to-paper angle:
There is more resistance in splaying the tines of the nib
Shades tend to be naturally thinner
If you want shades to be thicker, you need to apply more pressure
Thinner and crisper hairlines
Paper tends to snag more
Scratchy writing
Personally, it is easier for me to create squared tops with a steeper angle
Lower nib-to-paper angle:
There is less resistance in splaying the tines
Easy to create thick shades
Less pressure needed
Hairlines can get thicker
Nib catches less fibers
Smoother writing
Hope this post helps you get to know your pen holders a bit better!
Paper Position and Nib Alignment
On this post, I talk about how to position the paper on the table before and while writing calligraphy. Key points are finding your natural finger movement, aligning your nib to the slant lines, and keeping the range of your hand right on your sweet spot on the paper.
People usually just want to jump into writing when handed the tools (I’ve been guilty of this myself!) but I wanted to first share with you how I usually position my tools and myself relative to the table prior to actually doing calligraphy. The way I do this has changed over the years and I won’t be surprised if it will still change in the future, but I have some pointers that might be helpful for you to try and see if it benefits you in some way. I don’t think there is a right and wrong way to do this, but these steps hopefully will make you more comfortable while writing, because calligraphy is a slow art and body aches and hand cramps are not unheard of :)
What you’ll need:
Paper with 55 degree guidelines printed on them (8mm guidesheet)
Pen holder with a pointed nib inserted to it
Clear table
Comfortable chair
Start with a clear table with your tools ready on the side. Take a seat and let’s do this!
Rest your writing arm comfortably on the table. Place your forearm in front of you with your elbow off of the table but near the edge.
Hold the pen in your writing hand as if you are about to write. Keep your wrist relaxed; don’t bend or twist your hand away from your forearm.
Note: How you would normally hold ANY pen is a good starting point. If you’re a beginner, I wouldn’t want you to worry about pen grip just yet :)
When you’ve more or less gotten to know how a nib behaves and if you find that you grip the pen too tight, resulting in hand cramps, I would advise you to gradually adjust your pen grip a little each time you practice, until you find a grip that doesn’t cramp your hand as much. While I believe there is no right or wrong way to hold a pen, if you want to adjust your death grip, try googling “dynamic tripod grasp” and aim for that pen hold.
While holding the pen and without any paper underneath it yet, imagine that you are writing a straight line. You’ll see your natural finger movement by moving the pointed nib in an up and down motion with just your fingers driving the pen.
This is one of the many things that I learned from Nina Tran. She’s a wonderful teacher and hosts a live Q&A every week on her Instagram page.
Now, while keeping an eye on the angle of your imaginary lines, place the paper under the nib in such a way that the slant lines are aligned with the movement of your nib.
The paper will most likely end up being aligned to your forearm and rotated quite a few degrees to the left if you are right handed (and to the right if you are a lefty).
This is important not just to make your hand comfortable but also to make your nib last longer. Twisting your wrist while writing cramps your hand much faster and dragging the nib in an unnatural angle puts uneven pressure on the tines, decreasing its life as well as producing jagged edges in your calligraphy.
Note: While you are doing calligraphy, you will find that there is a spot where your hand is able to write comfortably and your fingers and wrist don’t have to strain and reach too far. Take note of that ‘sweet spot’. Instead of moving your hand along the paper from the leftmost to the rightmost side of the paper, adjust the paper underneath your hand and keep writing on that sweet spot. This reduces hand cramping and also helps produce consistent letters.
Optional: If you find that your elbow gets tucked closer to your body while your writing and that the majority of your forearm is hanging off of the table, causing it to feel numb after a while, you can try twisting your seat so that your body is facing slightly to the left until your whole forearm rests comfortably on the table.
Now what do you do with your non-writing hand? Use it to hold down or pin the paper gently onto the table. This is because you might find your paper sliding down with the pressure you’ll be applying to the pen when you’re dragging it downwards.
Our hands have natural oils on them that could interfere with how the ink sticks to the paper. And I get sweaty hands as well! So it’s useful to have a separate guard sheet placed under your writing hand. Just be careful not to let it get in the way of your writing.
As for your posture, you will most likely lean forward towards the paper in order to see what you’re writing. Try to keep your back straight and try not to slouch. When you lean forward, bend from your hips and not from your back, neck, or shoulders.
Lastly, don’t forget to breathe! There’s a tendency to hold your breath while writing. Remind yourself to inhale (try this with each upstroke) and to exhale (try this with each downstroke).
For more tips on breathing and posture, look up Paul Antonio’s videos on Youtube. I’ve certainly taken some of his techniques (#s 5, 8, and 9) and adjusted them to my own comfort.
Hope this helps!
How to Write Calligraphy on Marble
My tips on how to write pointed pen calligraphy on marble coasters. I talk about the tools I usually use, how to erase mistakes, and how to make sure the ink stays on the marble for longer.
I’ve written on marble coasters for gifts, for a wedding, and just for myself and I have to say it’s one of my favourite projects because they’re simple and they look quite special when personalized.
Read on for the process that I usually follow and I hope you pick up some useful tips!
Wipe the marble surface with a glass cleaner before starting. This makes sure that the ink doesn’t go all over the place when you start writing.
To achieve thicker strokes, use a flexible nib like the Hunt 22B, Hunt 101, or Brause Blue Pumpkin. Take note, if you are not used to a flexible nib, the ink might be harder to control and the thickness can get out of hand.
If you don’t mind having less contrast between the thick and thin strokes, stiff nibs like the Nikko G and Zebra G are sturdy and work well with marble too. You might have to retouch the upstrokes to achieve more visible lines at times.
Not all marbles are smooth. If you visibly see pores on its surface, it’s better to use thick inks like Dr PH Martins Iridescent Ink. Added bonus: this ink is waterproof. If the surface is smooth enough, it can take thinner inks like sumi ink.
If you make a mistake and the ink is still wet, wipe it down with a paper towel dipped in clean water. If the ink has dried a bit, rubbing alcohol works great. Use a Q-tip for spot correction or paper towel for wiping the whole thing away. Just make sure that the surface is dry before writing on it again.
Let the ink dry for 24 hours. Spray a fixative (I use Krylon) as many times as you desire to make sure that the ink stays longer.
Watch the following video to see how I wrote on these marble coasters using a jade calligraphy ink from Dr. PH Martins Iridescent collection.
Hope this helps!